THE portrayal of Bruges in the 2008 dark comedy “In Bruges” was of a fairy tale city so dull it nearly drove Colin Farrell’s character mad. “Maybe that’s what hell is: the entire rest of eternity spent in Bruges,” he concludes in the closing scene of the film (the sanitized version, that is). In reality, the charming capital of West Flanders in northwestern Belgium is indeed tranquil, with swans gliding along medieval canals and cobblestone lanes dotted with lace shops and quiet cafes. But Bruges now has much more to offer. Ambitious restaurants are run by talented young chefs, and creative chocolate shops stock the confections of experimental chocolatiers. New and renovated museums are opening their doors and, after dark, local beer pubs offer mind-boggling selections of rare Belgian beers from the region’s celebrated breweries. Hell? Hardly.