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    La Paz





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    Name: Kamila and Michelangelo Seidler and Cestari
    Date of birth: Unknown

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    Fundacion Melting Pot Bolivia


    GUSTU is a social company lead by the MPB Foundation in association with Bolivian food people and entrepreneurs.

    GUSTU is an elegant fine dining restaurant, a bakery and eventually also a bistro headed by the  chefs Kamilla Seidler and Michelangelo Cestari, chosen for this special mission, in collaboration with a team of Bolivian chefs trained in the Meyer Group including NOMA and in a number of other Danish top restaurants.

    The GUSTU fine dining restaurant is expected to open its doors in early 2013.

    Each year at GUSTU, app. 30 low income young Bolivians are been trained, theoretically and in practice, to become cooks, waiters and bakers with an entrepreneurial mentality. This education is an integral part of restaurant operations and the wish to form future culinary change agents vital for the growth of food related business in Bolivia is a key reason for opening GUSTU.

    It is the mission of GUSTU to explore the diversity of Bolivian products and rediscover the values ​​of the indigenous food cultures from Amazon, the Altiplano (High Plateau) and Valleys in order to develop new culinary expressions that will become an asset to the food movement in Bolivia.

    A majority of the profits that may be made from GUSTU – the rest will remunerate external investments – as well as donations from the founders and Bolivian sponsors, will be invested in education for young Bolivians and the Bolivian food movement, thus creating a model of long-term sustainability.

    - Fundacion Melting Pot Bolivia - Amy McKeever
    Claus Meyer's Gustu Aims to Elevate Bolivian Cuisine

    Claus Meyer's Gustu Aims to Elevate Bolivian Cuisine

    Chefs Kamilla Seidler and Michelangelo Cestari, and Bolivia's indigenous pacay fruit. [Photos: Bloomberg Pursuits magazine]

    Next month, Noma co-owner Claus Meyer will open his newest restaurant Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia, an ambitious restaurant that aims to do for Bolivian cuisine what Noma did for the New Nordic and what Gaston Acurio has done for Peruvian cuisine. Bloomberg critic Ryan Sutton spent some time in Bolivia for Bloomberg Pursuits magazine — "the poorest state in South America" — to preview the $1.1 million restaurant and cooking school that aims to raise the profile of Bolivian food and help develop the country's food movement.

    In the piece, Sutton initially expresses some doubt about who would travel to Bolivia just for a dining experience and whether the pricey tasting menu will shut out the locals. But, he adds, "that was before I tried the llama." And, as Sutton notes over at The Bad Deal, Gustu is so much more than just an upscale destination restaurant with a tasting menu that runs $260 for two. It's also "a restaurant that makes improving people's lives an integral part of its business model." He dubs it the "next great social restaurant."

    Meyer explains that the point is to follow the Acurio model of turning "native fare into an exportable commodity." The restaurateur says he plans to reinvest much of the profit into the Bolivian food movement, and it has brought in young Bolivians to train as cooks and staff. As Meyer explains, "When our students leave Gustu, we have the intention of investing in them and their ideas. ... So the idea of Gustu will disseminate into Bolivian society and not remain something just for the rich." The restaurant opens in April. - Amy McKeever

    Claus Meyer


    Michelangelo Cestari, head of ’sweets and bread’ at Michelin star restaurant Relæ, and Kamilla Seidler, assistant head chef at Bo Bech’s Restaurant Geist, have been chosen to head an ambitious food project in La Paz, Bolivia – the second poorest country in South America. The two will head a food school for poor, young Bolivians complete with a gourmet restaurant, bistro and bakery.

    The two Danish appraised chefs will go to Bolivia as part of the charity project GUSTU. The project is being realized in collaboration between the Melting Pot foundation and Danish NGO IBIS and intends to help socially vulnerable young people in Bolivia to make a living within gastronomy and concurrently develop the Bolivian kitchen – and down the line to create sustainable, gastronomical enterprises in and around the Bolivian local societies.

    Producers of high quality products and their access to the market will be promoted on the way.


    The project draws on Claus Meyer’s work when establishing noma and the Nordic food movement, and is based on the idea that you can promote health, education, employment and ultimately economic growth by releasing the potential in Bolivia’s food culture. The project was named GUSTU as it means “taste” in the Inka language of Quechua.



    Michelangelo Cestari (born in Venezuela and with Italian citizenship) is head of ’sweets and bread’ at Michelin star restaurant Relæ and has previously worked as a chef at Geranium and Mielcke & Hurtigkarl. Before entering the Copenhagen restaurant scene, he worked at Au Crocodile in Strasbourg, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxford and Mugaritz in San Sebastián. All two-starred Michelin restaurants.

    Kamilla Seidler is assistant head chef at Restaurant Geist, where she also worked as souschef and dessert chef. Before that, she was a chef at Meyer Kantiner and dessert chef at Søllerød kro. Prior to that, she worked at the meat- and fish section at Restaurant Paustian and – like Michelangelo – at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons and Mugaritz.

    Michelangelo Cestari and Kamilla Seidler both assume their duties on October 1st 2012.


    At food school GUSTU in La Paz, Bolivia, local chefs train teams of up to 30 students at a time, and the first team of 23 chef-, waiter- and bakery pledges is already well underway. They have just returned to the class room after finishing internships at restaurants in La Paz and will thus be ready, when the gourmet restaurant GUSTU opens in La Paz in January 2013. The bistro and bakery is scheduled to open later in 2013. The first symposium on the New Bolivian Kitchen is held in La Paz on October 12th – 14th 2012.



    Melting Pot is Claus Meyer’s non-profit, charitable foundation. The foundation aims – through activities related to food, food craftsmanship and entrepreneurship as recurring elements – to increase quality of life and improve the future possibilities among vulnerable and marginalized communities in Denmark and selected developing countries. The target demographic is especially children and young people, people with criminal background as well as refugees and immigrants.


    IBIS is a member-based, independent Danish development organization that works globally, nationally and locally to ensure that people in Africa and Latin America gets equal access to education, influence and resources. IBIS has done development work in Bolivia for more than 20 years.


    Read more about IBIS’ work at


    For more information and image material, please contact Anne Rahbek Christensen at:


    Phone: +45 25 10 27 09

    - Claus Meyer - William Neuman
    High Ambition and Visions of Andean Haute Cuisine

    High Ambition and Visions of Andean Haute Cuisine

    La Paz Journal
    Meridith Kohut for The New York Times

    Cooking school students shopped at a market in La Paz. Their school is associated with a restaurant named Gustu and is aimed at creating a new generation of Bolivian chefs.

    LA PAZ, Bolivia — Bolivia has not been kind to foreigners trying to import revolution. The attempt by the Argentine-born Che Guevara to set off a peasant revolt here ended badly. The verdict is still out on the latest foreigner to arrive in this impoverished nation trying to stir things up.

    Martin Alipaz/European Pressphoto Agency

    The Danish celebrity chef Claus Meyer is opening a restaurant in La Paz, hoping to start a Bolivian food movement.

    He is a chef, not a Che.

    Claus Meyer, a Danish celebrity chef and restaurant entrepreneur, is one of the owners of Noma, a Copenhagen restaurant that is a darling of food critics for its mix of locavore purism and avant-garde cooking methods. Restaurant magazine, a trade journal, ranks it the best restaurant in the world.

    Now Mr. Meyer is building a restaurant here, an experiment in Andean haute cuisine that comes with hefty side orders of revolution and high ambition.

    Mr. Meyer, who came to Bolivia for the first time last year and has been back three times, described the restaurant, Gustu, due to open in January, as much more than a place to get a fancy meal in the continent’s poorest country. He and his followers describe it as the start of a Bolivian food movement that will rediscover local ingredients like llama meat, chuños (potatoes dehydrated high in the Andes) and coca, the plant that is used to make cocaine but that has long been used here as a mild stimulant, a tea and a medicinal herb.

    Gustu’s mission will be to teach Bolivians how to eat in healthier ways, spur economic growth, tourism and exports, support local farmers and turn Bolivian cuisine into the next world food sensation. If all goes well, Mr. Meyer said in a telephone call from Copenhagen, the restaurant will use food “to change the destiny of a country.”

    The restaurant, being built in the upscale Calacoto neighborhood, hardly looks like a crucible of revolution. On a recent day, workers installed insulation in the roof. The kitchen was stacked with bags of concrete mix and plaster.

    Michelangelo Cestari, one of the restaurant’s head chefs, said it would be the most advanced restaurant in the country, full of high-tech gadgets of molecular gastronomy that atomize, froth and otherwise transform foods.

    The restaurant will serve only ingredients grown or created in Bolivia. Wines will come from the country’s handful of wineries and liquor will be limited largely to singani, a local grape brandy.

    Mr. Cestari pointed to a tall wall where wines will be stored and displayed, although he said there might not be enough Bolivian labels to fill it at first. The idea, he said, is to help create demand for local products.

    Mr. Cestari, a pastry chef, is from Venezuela and has worked for years in fine restaurants in Europe. So has his fellow head chef, Kamilla Seidler, who is Danish. The only Bolivian among the restaurant’s top cooks is Christian Gómez, the senior sous chef, who worked for years in Spain.

    They are keenly aware of the risk of being seen as outsiders. “Perhaps it’s arrogant to think we can come here to develop a gastronomy,” Mr. Cestari said, “but we hope we can push something.”

    He said the menu would include items inspired by Bolivian dishes, like a lamb on a cross, made by splaying a whole lamb on an iron cross and cooking it slowly over a smoky fire; or calapurca, a soup heated by placing a hot rock in the bowl.

    Rather than simply serving typical Bolivian food done well, however, the kitchen will use the method favored by Mr. Meyer in Denmark of focusing on a few basic ingredients and trying to draw out their essence.

    “We don’t want to do French food or fusion or nouvelle,” Mr. Gómez said. “We want to do something new with a Bolivian identity.”

    Mr. Cestari said that the average dinner tab would be $50 to $60 a person, which he said is on par with other top restaurants here but still prompted several Bolivians to gasp. The minimum wage here is about $143 a month.

    Mr. Meyer will address that contradiction soon by opening a bistro and bakery where people can eat more economically. And he said that all profits from the restaurant would go to charitable projects in Bolivia, which he chose partly because it was a developing country with a wide range of unique local ingredients.

    The project also includes a cooking school for young Bolivians from poor families, which will provide a trained work force for the restaurant and, Mr. Meyer hopes, create a new generation of experimentally minded chefs.

    On a recent morning, students at the school, which is run out of an ornate mansion in central La Paz, buzzed around a cramped kitchen, making pork chops and yucca fries. Then some of them piled into a van for a field trip to a nearby market.

    Ms. Seidler, one of the head chefs, said that because she arrived in Bolivia only recently she often finds herself learning from her students. At a market stall, Ms. Seidler and a student, Belén Soria, pored over types of offal. Ms. Soria explained how indigenous women prepared a mixture of fried tripe and potatoes that they sell from carts at night.

    Ms. Soria, 24, said she grew up helping her grandmother cook and sell api, a sweet corn gruel that is a workingperson’s inexpensive morning staple.

    “Everyone has their own knowledge, things their grandparents told them,” she said. But she has less time to help her grandmother now that she is focusing on her studies.

    “We’re all curious to prepare new things, with our own stamp,” Ms. Soria said. “Original things.” - William Neuman - Ryan Sutton
    Noma's Co-Owner Thinks Bolivian Food Is the Next Big Thing

    Noma's Co-Owner Thinks Bolivian Food Is the Next Big Thing

    Danish celebrity chef Claus Meyer owns two fine-dining establishments. The first is Noma in Copenhagen, No. 1 on San Pellegrino’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for three years running and recipient of two Michelin stars. The wine-paired tasting menu for two at the avant-garde eatery costs about $900.
    Michelangelo Cestari

    Gustu co-chef Michelangelo Cestari, 28, says he feels like a father to the restaurant's 30 aspiring chefs and waiters. Photographer: Tom Schierlitz/Bloomberg Pursuits

      Bolivian Experiment

    Even in La Paz, Bolivia -- situated at a brutal 12,000 feet (3,600 meters) above sea level -- it's nearly impossible to find a proper Bolivian restaurant. Noma chef Claus Meyer aims to change that. Photographer: Tom Schierlitz/Bloomberg Pursuits

    Andean Surf and Turf

    Vicuna jerky served with hearts of palm, a poached egg and fried trout roe. Photographer: Tom Schierlitz/Bloomberg Pursuits

    Dessert Course

    Sugar cane juice whipped into a soft meringue, topped with alcohol-infused banana passion fruit and served on palm bark. Photographer: Tom Schierlitz/Bloomberg Pursuits

    Magical Machine

    The high-tech oven behind Gusto's butter-poached llama shoulder. Photographer: Tom Schierlitz/Bloomberg Pursuits

    Final Flavor

    The six-course menu is washed down with a lemony singani cocktail containing raspberry coulis and vanilla bean. Photographer: Tom Schierlitz/Bloomberg Pursuits

    Kamilla Seidler

    Kamilla Seidler, previously of Geist and Mugaritz, is a co-chef at Gustu. Photographer: Tom Schierlitz/Bloomberg Pursuits

    The second is Gustu, where a couple ordering the wine- paired tasting menu will spend just $260. That’s quite a discount from Noma. There’s just one catch: Gustu isn’t in Denmark, one of the world’s richest countries; it’s in Bolivia, the poorest state in South America, Bloomberg Pursuits will report in its Spring issue.

    I don’t care if the Noma guy owns it, I remember thinking when I first caught wind of Meyer’s new venture, which is scheduled to open in April. No one’s flying to La Paz to eat llama cooked in a vacuum-sealed bag. Meyer himself isn’t concerned. “With all those hundreds of thousands of foodies traveling the world to capture a new culinary adventure, if they were told that something fantastic were made of wild ingredients from the Amazon, and if those products were interpreted by talented chefs, they’d buy their plane tickets,” the 49-year-old chef tells me by telephone from Norway.

    And therein lies an irony. The target market for Gustu -- perhaps Bolivia’s only restaurant to use exclusively Bolivian products -- won’t be everyday Bolivians, 51 percent of whom live in poverty and even more of whom won’t be able to afford the tasting menu. (There will be a lower-cost bakery and cafe opening at the end of the year.)

    Targeting Gastrotourists

    Gustu’s target market will be bankers, embassy expats and, if Meyer is correct, gastrotourists -- an elite subset of the global culinary cognoscenti who spend their disposable income on multicourse menus, Instagram the dishes as trophies and think nothing of hopping continents for a meal. Meyer thinks he’s got their next great destination dining spot, albeit in a most unlikely locale. Never mind the altitude -- La Paz is a brutal 3,600 meters (12,000 feet) above sea level -- or the lousy restaurant scene; there are no major critics or blogs to champion (or chastise) the cuisine of La Paz. Things weren’t looking so good for Gustu, I reckoned. But that was before I tried the llama.

    Indigenous Cuisine

    My taxi is careening down the autopista, a road that descends from El Alto into the heart of La Paz. It’s my third day in the country, and I’m returning from a trip to Uyuni, where the rainy season has turned the salt flats into the world’s largest mirror. The scenery is stunning. The food is not. In Uyuni, there might be more red-sauce joints per square foot than in New York’s Little Italy. At the famed Luna Salada Hotel, the chef registered a look of confusion when I turned down his offer of spaghetti.

    Here’s the problem: Bolivian restaurateurs don’t have faith in their indigenous cuisine. With the exception of the very good El Vagon del Sur, it’s nearly impossible to find a proper Bolivian restaurant in La Paz. Diners are instead subjected to continental-style beef and shrimp at Aransaya or llama saltimbocca at Pronto Dalicatessen, a passable Andean-Italian restaurant.

    Meyer is well aware of this issue. “Fifteen years ago, no one had heard of or knew about fine Peruvian restaurants, and the finest dining spots in Lima used to have French menus,” reads the website for his Melting Pot Bolivia Foundation, a nonprofit organization dedicated to elevating the role of Bolivian cuisine.

    Peruvian Model

    For Peru, things changed when Gaston Acurio burst onto the scene, turning seviche and other native fare into an exportable commodity with highbrow international chains like La Mar and Astrid & Gaston. It’s this Peruvian model that Meyer wants to apply to La Paz. And given his previous experience pioneering a national cuisine, he may be the right guy to do it.

    In 2004, Meyer teamed with Noma co-owner Rene Redzepi to launch the new Nordic cuisine movement, championing products endemic to Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden.

    Ingredients from outside the region -- including foie gras, olive oil and tomatoes -- were banned in favor of musk ox, moss and lichen. Noma, which accommodates just 42 diners at a time, is now nearly impossible to get into. Meyer could have duplicated the concept in any number of world capitals, and the crowds would have followed. Instead, he decided to export not a restaurant but his belief that a nation must find its own path to culinary development -- with a little support from abroad.

    Gastronomic Shackles

    To help him spread this hyperlocavore mind-set, Meyer approached IBIS, a Danish nongovernmental organization that promotes equal access to education among the poor of Africa and Latin America. Together, they shortlisted five countries that met the following criteria: biological diversity, low crime, high poverty, political stability and cuisine with “unreleased potential.” Bolivia scored best, and the result was Gustu, a $1.1 million restaurant and cooking school that Meyer says will be profitable in four to five years.

    Gustu’s gastronomic shackles will be even stricter than Noma’s. Nothing from neighboring Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Paraguay or Peru. Every last ingestible item -- alcohol included -- will be Bolivian. That means no bourbon, scotch or vodka; instead there will be singani, a Bolivian analogue to pisco but with a heck of a lot more floral flavors. (Think jasmine-infused gin.)

    Reinvesting Profits

    Much of the profits will be reinvested into the Bolivian food movement and educating young Bolivians. In other words, Gustu is the equivalent of the socially responsible Mission Chinese Food in New York and San Francisco, where 75 cents from the price of every entree is donated to local food banks.

    Destination diners, of course, won’t come for charitable reasons. They’ll come for the food. And that’s where things start to get exciting. Bolivian cuisine, with its spicy chicken stews, roasted meats and enough potato preparations to put most American steakhouses to shame, is magnificent. And if there’s a scarcity of Bolivian fare at restaurants in La Paz, there’s a plethora of lunch stalls hawking fresh-pressed juices and spicy beef tongue.

    So when Gustu co-chefs Kamilla Seidler and Michelangelo Cestari invite me to a midday meal, it’s not at a restaurant but at the famed Achumani Market, with tables staffed by old ladies doling out saltenas -- bright-yellow empanadas filled with a spicy broth.

    The meal costs 10 bucks. That in itself is a problem. Ethnic food, for lack of a better term, is often viewed as common, and its price reflects the sentiment. Will anyone, Bolivians or foreigners, be willing to pay Gustu’s prices for food that isn’t part of the internationally accepted canon of haute cuisines?

    Ambitious Fare

    Seidler, 29, and Cestari, 28, who worked together at Mugaritz in Errenteria, Spain, certainly hope so -- and they’re quick to point out that they’ll be serving more-ambitious fare than market food.

    “See that oil on top of the sopa de fideos [noodle soup]? We’ll strain that out,” Seidler says. “We’re going for something more refined.” That’s an understatement. Gustu’s kitchen is equipped with high-tech toys such as chamber vacuum sealers and wet-dry combination ovens that are a trademark of today’s avant- garde cuisine. The trick with Gustu is that while the food is indigenous, the cooking is not. And therein lies another challenge: Who, besides Cestari and Seidler, will actually be able to cook this food? Poor young Bolivians, some with little culinary background, that’s who.

    Young Apprentices

    At the La Paz central bus terminal, a gaggle of Andean mothers are swarming around Cestari, a native Venezuelan, who, at 6 foot 1 inch, towers over just about everyone in the country (except for Jonas Andersen, Gustu’s 6-foot-5-inch sommelier and mixologist). From a distance, it would appear the women are asking for Cestari’s autograph. Upon closer inspection, I realize they’re demanding his phone number. They want to be able to check on their daughters and sons -- aka Gustu’s 30 aspiring chefs and waiters.

    “I feel like a father to them,” says Cestari, who gets on a bus to give the 19- to 27-year-olds a pep talk. They’re being packed off to Lima, where they’ll train for six weeks at La Mar, Astrid & Gaston and other renowned restaurants. The bus ride is 27 hours. Most of the young people have never set foot outside the country.

    The reason for the field trip isn’t just training; it’s to expose the young apprentices to good food and service. Already, they’ve been subjected to the cooking school’s rigorous curriculum, including a quiz by Andersen on the intricacies of photosynthesis, fermentation and beer production. The 30 students will rotate through all of Gustu’s cooking and service posts during their tenure, so they’ll be fluent in all aspects of restaurant work.

    Kitchen Magic

    “When our students leave Gustu, we have the intention of investing in them and their ideas,” Meyer says. “So the idea of Gustu will disseminate into Bolivian society and not remain something just for the rich.”

    In the building that will soon be Gustu, the one furnished room is a test kitchen of sorts, where Seidler and Cestari prepare a preview of six dishes, followed by cocktails. Given the quality of the restaurant fare I’ve tried elsewhere in Bolivia, I’m not expecting much. But what follows is nothing short of magical.

    First comes a swath of farmer’s cheese and purple corn puree. It looks quite fancy -- until I see the chicharron (fried pork rind) on top and realize I’m being served dip. About twice as porky as the American variant, the chicharron is enlivened by the puree, which packs enough lime zest to cure scurvy. That’s pretty good dip.

    Bite-Size Morsels

    Next is a plate of gumdrop-sized pink potatoes coated in spicy aji amarillo pepper puree. They’re topped with a “paper” made of the same spicy peppers and finished with shavings of chuno, a Bolivian specialty that involves freeze-drying, and occasionally trampling on, potatoes in the mountains to preserve them.

    The one-bite morsels pop into the mouth with ease, like vegetarian caviar. The layers of flavor -- nutty, spicy, vegetal -- are as complex as those at a Michelin two-star restaurant. Lesson learned: Next time Aunt Dot serves you a plate of lousy mashed potatoes at Thanksgiving, take them out in the snow and step on them.

    If none of the above appeals to you … too bad: There won’t be any substitutions on the a la carte or tasting menu at Gustu. Cestari is committed to this point.

    “We are not here for the guests. The guests are here for us. We want to give them our experience, our conception of food,” he says, adding that he won’t be taking special requests for a side of beans and rice either, which would be like asking for a peanut butter and jelly sandwich at Thomas Keller’s Per Se in Manhattan.

    Andean Surf and Turf

    Next up is vicuna jerky with hearts of palm, a poached egg and fried trout roe. Why fry the roe? “Because that’s how the chulita in the market said she’d cook them,” Seidler says. Good move. Frying gives the caviar the same chewy texture as the beefy jerky. Call the dish Andean surf and turf.

    Course four is llama -- a shoulder poached in butter for 14 solid hours. The meat, which chews with all the heft of a strip steak, possesses a surreal sweetness that the Gustu chefs fortify with a hint of banana essence. A topping of almond shavings, piney at first, dissolves on the tongue like snowflakes. It’s all the magnificent equivalent of a fruit posing as a steak posing as a llama. And it’s unlike anything I’ve ever tried, anywhere.

    Destination Dish

    The desserts are simple. Sugar cane juice whipped into a soft meringue and topped with singani-infused tumbo (banana passion fruit); it’s like Vermont maple candy on a tropical vacation with a Frenchwoman. And lastly: pacay, a Bolivian fruit that is shaped like a banana, tastes like a cross between a litchi and a watermelon and has the consistency of cotton candy. Seidler stuffs the fruit with chocolate ganache to mimic its natural black seeds. The flavors are clean and pure. This is a destination dish.

    The six-course menu (washed down with a lemony singani cocktail) is hands down one of my favorite meals of the past 12 months.

    Will Gustu be as splendid for the anonymous diner? How will wealthy Bolivians react to a no-substitution policy dictated by waiters who by design come from low-income families? These and other questions will be answered come April. As to whether I’d personally visit any country on earth just to eat at a single restaurant: of course not -- Noma included. But do I hope to return to see Bolivia join the ranks of nations who refine their humble fare into ambitious tasting menus? You bet.

    (Ryan Sutton writes about New York City restaurants for Muse, the arts and leisure section of Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own. Follow him on Tumblr at or - Ryan Sutton


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