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Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare

Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare

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Contact info

200 Schermerhorn Street11201 Brooklyn
United States
T+1 7182430050





Chef's personal info

Name: Cesar  Ramirez
Date of birth: Unknown

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Articles -
The 10 Best Restaurants in New York

The 10 Best Restaurants in New York

1. Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare
200 Schermerhorn St.- Brooklyn


The location: A short stroll down the block from the entrance to a grocery called Brooklyn Fare. The number of courses: Variable, but seemingly infinite. The seating arrangements: Stools, high and hard. The dining experience: So magnificent nothing else matters. Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare opened two years ago offering quirky countertop meals in a hard-edged grocery store prep-kitchen. Dinner is still served in the same spot, but every aspect of the experience has been extravagantly and luxuriously uplifted. A meal today goes for $225 per person before wine, tax or tip, and that hardly seems enough, not when the place feeds fewer than 30 guests a night.

This restaurant is about one man, Chef César Ramirez, who stands behind his counter dressed in a stark white Dior dress shirt rather than in a chef's jacket. He personally has a hand in every dish that every customer eats, and he operates his restaurant without compromise or, for that matter, without days off. When guests are there eating, he's there cooking. Ramirez is the Lone Ranger, Jeremiah Johnson, Batman without Robin.

Originally, I thought of his small plates as magnificently miscellaneous. A taste of veal brain might be followed by a bit of chicken liver, all pleasingly presented. Today, his ingredients are insanely deluxe. If bluefin toro appears, it will be the best bluefin he can find. On my last visit, he showed me (but did not serve me, I'm sorry to say) a small Japanese ocean perch that cost him$400 and was scheduled for the following night's service.

Chef's Table is, in its own quirky way, one of the fanciest restaurants in New York, sleek and cool, with a small staff that's quick and professional. The meal is partly Japanese—chopsticks are part of the place settings—but mostly it's whatever Ramirez decides to make it. The opening courses are his personal versions of accented sashimi: madai topped with crispy scales, a Kumamoto oyster with Meyer lemon, Korean fluke (you'll be stunned) with pickled daikon, shima-aji (striped jackfish) with ginger dressing, live scallop with lime foam, and on it goes. The accents are edo-style (from Japan), Adria-style (from Spain), French-style from the heart of his professional training. If there was an imperfection to Chef's Table in its original incarnation, it was the absence of a wine program. There's one now. The place settings used to be simple; today they're elegant. There's no pastry chef, which I thought was a weakness until my last visit, when Ramirez prepared tiny, yeasty donuts with wild huckleberries and Riesling ice cream, proof that he can also cook American-style. In the pursuit of perfection, there is nothing this man won't do.

When I called Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin to inform him that I was dropping him to number two in New York, he said of Ramirez, "There is not another place like Brooklyn Fare on the planet, maybe the galaxy. This guy is a fucking genius, and this is the best restaurant we have in New York. You have no choice but to say that." -


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